Rolex Submariner-Date 16800 Tropical Dial on Oyster BraceletRolex Submariner-Date 16800 Tropical Dial on Oyster Bracelet

Rolex Submariner-Date 16800 Tropical Dial on Oyster Bracelet

Transitional Rolex sports models are incredibly fun to collect because you never know what you are going to get. Take this reference 16800 as an example. That dial was originally black but has since turned into an even brown a process called “topicalization”. This ref. 16800 hails from 1985 and is put together by an oyster bracelet. The money is on the dial and hands. If you notice you will see the hands, indexes, and insert pearl all match, meaning everything has aged accordingly and nothing has been switched out. In-Depth Reading The Rolex Submariner is often regarded as the most iconic watch ever made. To dissect its entire history within this space would be impossible so we will make sure to explain it in long form as an article post. But here is a little taste, a short and sweet bio of the Submariner-Date. The addition of the date function to the Submariner began the “sporty-luxury” era for Rolex. The fact that you could finally wear your diving (weekend) watch to the office under your shirt cuff opened a whole new market for Rolex. The first new-era Submariner took the form of the reference 1680 launched in 1969 and phased out in 1978. It was then followed by reference 16800 in 1978, which now included a sapphire crystal (a modern departure from the plexiglass era) and an upgraded case and movement. Both references 16800 and 168000 (made for 2 years) are lovingly known as “transitional” references as they represent exactly that. A moment in time when Rolex was morphing into the luxury watch brand we know today. Technical Specifications Brand: Rolex Model: Submariner Reference: 16800 Case Size: 40mm Movement: Automatic Cal. 3035 Noteworthy Details: Brown dial “Tropical” Crystal: Sapphire glass Year of Manufacture: 1985 Box & Papers: No

Seiko Scuba Diver 7S26-0029Seiko Scuba Diver 7S26-0029

Seiko Scuba Diver 7S26-0029

With a loyal cult following Seiko is responsible for some of the most iconic diving watches ever made. These watches beautifully mold aesthetics with robustness. It is a watch that will hold its own wherever it goes. Featured here is a diver ref. 7S26. Along with its rotating bezel and 200m depth rating, this Seiko will power through as it tags along on a diving trip or sits under the cuff of a perfectly tailored shirt. Powered by an automatic movement engineered to display both the day and date. All housed within a 42mm screw back steel case, and put together by a steel bracelet.     Brand: Seiko 
 Model: Diver Reference: 7S26-0029 Case Size: 42mm Movement: Automatic Details: Features a rotating bezel with heavy lume dial and hands Depth Rating: 200 meters

Cartier Tortue 2689G in Rose Gold CPCP Collection 150 Examples Made - Full SetCartier Tortue 2689G in Rose Gold CPCP Collection 150 Examples Made - Full Set

Cartier Tortue 2689G in Rose Gold CPCP Collection 150 Examples Made - Full Set

The Cartier Tortue ref. 2689G is a stunner from a design point of view. By the same token it also represents a transformative period for modern day Cartier. This watch belongs to the CPCP or Collection Privee Cartier Paris. A series that reintroduced some of the most iconic designs of the past with the Tortue being one of them. Only 150 examples of the reference 2686G in rose gold were made and this one here is accompanied by its set of box and paperwork. Aside from its rarity and modern day collectability some details that set the ref. 2689G apart from other modern day Cartier watches are its hand finished dial, manual caliber, sapphire case back, and complications such as a date function and power reserve indicator. The overall condition of this particular example is very good. The case shows minor signs of scratching. All consistent with previous wear. In-Depth Reading The famed CPCP line up came about as an attempt to demonstrate to the watch world that Cartier had not lost its way. The years of using quartz movements was now posing a risk. Consumers were swiftly forgetting the truly remarkable feats of design and mechanics brought about by the brand during the early 20th century and that was simply unacceptable. From 1998 to 2008 the CPCP collection re-imagined and re-introduced the most iconic designs of the 20th century. All these highly limited editions were beautifully hand finished and powered by mechanical movements sourced from the likes of Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, FP Journe, and Vianney Halter. Certain details distinguished a CPCP collection from the mass produced Cartier watch. The fact that only 50 - 100 - 150 examples of each model were made was one of them. The dials (except the Cintree) were signed “Cartier Paris” with each depicting a rose motif placed prominently at the center of the dial. Manual movements though brought in externally were given the final touches by Cartier. The Tortue design was launched in 1912 as a time only watch and even predated the famed Tank. As the name hints Cartier borrowed inspiration from the shape of a turtle’s shell. Its subsequent high demand led the French jeweler to roll out complications such as the Tortue Minute Repeater and the Tortue Monopusher Chronograph. When the CPCP collection rolled out the Tortue took center stage as the most popular design, with clients vying for the perpetual calendar, chronograph, and time only iterations. White gold and rose gold were used for the model, both numbered and made in 150 examples each. Technical Specifications Brand: Cartier Model: Tortue Reference: 2689G Case Size: 34mm x 33mm Movement: Manual wind caliber 9750MC based on a Piaget movement Complications: Date function and power reserve indicator Noteworthy Details: Hand finished dial with blued hands Crystal: Sapphire front and case back Year of Manufacture: 2004 Box & Papers: Complete set of box and documentation  

Waltham Cushion Case with Porcelain Dial on Yellow Gold CaseWaltham Cushion Case with Porcelain Dial on Yellow Gold Case

Waltham Cushion Case with Porcelain Dial on Yellow Gold Case

The contrast between the yellow gold case and the white porcelain dial is fantastic on this 1910’s era Waltham Cushion. Elegant yet remarkably wearable, goes along great with a shirt and tie as it does with a denim shirt. The beauty about vintage watches is their character molds to any situation. Cased within a 32mm case and powered by a manual movement. Put together by a gold bracelet that can be easily interchangeable. Brand: Waltham Model: Cushion Size: 32mm Metal: Yellow Gold Movement: Manual Year: 1910’s

Fahys Trench Watch with Dial Cover in Silver CaseFahys Trench Watch with Dial Cover in Silver Case

Fahys Trench Watch with Dial Cover in Silver Case

A well preserved World War I era trench watch cased in a 40mm sterling silver and retailed by Fahys. The overall condition is fantastic considering it is an old watch that has probably endured a few adventures throughout its lifetime. It onion crown powers its manual movement while its dial cover protects the fragile dial bearing the “Montauk” name sits below. Brand: Fahys Model: Trench Watch Reference: WWI Size: 40mm Metal: Sterling Silver Movement: Manual Year: 1910's

Heuer Autavia GMT “Tropical Dial” Ref. 1163 MKII with Faded Red & Blue BezelHeuer Autavia GMT “Tropical Dial” Ref. 1163 MKII with Faded Red & Blue Bezel

Heuer Autavia GMT “Tropical Dial” Ref. 1163 MKII with Faded Red & Blue Bezel

Remarkable automatic Heuer Autavia GMT reference 1163 in pristine condition and featuring a brown or “tropical” dial. One of the most beautiful dials found on a sports vintage watch. The Autavia is powered by a cal.11 automatic movement, an absolute workhouse of a caliber. Its 42mm steel case is perfectly proportioned, which makes this iteration of the Autavia as wearable today as it was then. The watch was manufactured in 1971-1972 and belongs to the second execution of the GMT Autavia also known as the MKII. Beautifully faded brown dial goes along perfectly with the faded blue and red rotating bezel. Reference 1163 had three variations, each with its own distinctive tell. The first execution had a bezel marked with 24 numbers. The second execution had a bezel marked with even numbers. The third execution came with a dial that featured three red stripes bordering the inner minutes chronograph counter. Though out of these variations the coolest one is probably the second execution for the fact that some can be found with brown tropical dials. In-Depth Reading The history behind Heuer as a brand and link to every high speed motoring sport is absolutely fascinating. They have been behind some of the most iconic chronograph watches ever made, think the Carrera, Monaco, and of course the Autavia. The name originally stems from a combination of Automobile and Aviation. Though the model was formally released in 1933 as a dash counter for pretty much anything that could go death defyingly fast, the Autavia gained its formal name in 1962. As a matter of fact the Autavia was the first Heuer to have its model name printed on the dial. The early 60’s gave the world the first two Autavia’s. Those were ref. 2446 (three counter chronograph) and 3646 (two counter chronograph). Both were powered by a manual caliber and featured both chronograph pushers and crown on the right side of the case. In 1969 Heuer released the first iteration of the automatic Autavia. This came fitted with the famed Caliber 11, which had both chronograph pushers on the right side and the setting crown on the left side. During the 20 year life cycle of the Autavia Heuer released around 200 iterations. Different dial variations, cases, movements etc. All in all the Autavia became a massive cash cow for the manufacture but the first variations do hold a special place in collector hearts. These were the watches that were pictured alongside some of the most prominent car racers such as Mario Andretti, Jochen Rindt, Jo Siffert, amongst others. Technical Specifications Brand: Heuer Model: Autavia GMT Reference: 1163 MKII Case Size: 42mm Movement: Buren Cal. 11 Noteworthy Details: Brown “Tropical” Dial Crystal: Plastic Glass Year of Manufacture: 1970 Box & Papers: No

Primax Trench WatchPrimax Trench Watch

Primax Trench Watch

The history of the trench watch is as fascinating as it is rather dramatic. These watches rose to fame during the 1910’s as World War I raged on. Soldiers headed to conflict needed time keepers and carrying around pocket watches was no longer ideal. The solution came in the form of the wristwatch. Much like their pocket watch predecessors these trench watches were fitted with enamel or porcelain dials, this made for a beautiful but delicate watch. Crazy to think many survived unscathed. What makes this watch distinctive is not its size, movement, nor aesthetic. What stands out here is its yellowish plastic crystal. You see, at night during war time the radium luminescence emanating from the dial would prove to be a hazard. Lurking around the trenches the enemy could spot the hunkered down soldier, and in a result giving away the entire squadron’s position. Watch manufacturers would try to darken the dial luminosity by outfitting the watch with a dark crystal. In this case a yellow one. Brand: Primax Model: Trench Watch Movement: Manual

Longines Cushion Silver Case with Porcelain DialLongines Cushion Silver Case with Porcelain Dial

Longines Cushion Silver Case with Porcelain Dial

A vintage Longines with sterling silver cushion case and Arabic numeral porcelain dial accompanied by outstanding provenance, always a major plus when collecting vintage watches. This particular watch sold in Poland on January 9 1929 to Zipper, the authorized dealer at the time. It was serviced in 2020 and is in fantastic working order. To find these watches almost 100 years after they first left the factory makes us incredibly happy and proud to be able to share it through our site. Brand: Longines Model: Cushion Case Caliber: 13.34ZZ Serial Number: 4.706.861 Dial: Porcelain Size: 32mm Metal: Sterling Silver Movement: Manual Year: 1929 Remarks: Sold in Poland on Jan 9, 1929